Grand Teton


This post was published on Thursday 25 July 2013.

This morning I got up early to make the most of the morning light, hoping that it wouldn’t be as overcast as it was yesterday.  It was to start with—but then it cleared up and turned into a fabulous day!  I was quite groggy when I got up, so I was determined to drink some coffee.  I knew I had to be at the Visitor Center (sic) for 8am to guarantee a place on the Ranger hike up to ‘Inspiration Point’.

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A nutritious breakfast

The lodge wasn’t serving breakfast when I left (common theme) so I found a coffee and a bun at the store next to the Visitor Center.  It was actually not that bad, I needed a) coffee and b) sugar, so it did the trick.

The Ranger hike involved a short boat ride across Jenny Lake, and then a hike up to Hidden Falls.

(The Americans are so imaginative with their names: this was a waterfall that is hidden until you can see it.  Likewise, the highest peak is called ‘Grand Teton’, the furthest south peak, ‘South Teton’, and I bet you can’t guess what the one in between is called..?  That’s right, ‘Middle Teton’.)

The hike was pretty easy, but the group had a mix of young and old, so we had to take it pretty slowly.  On the way we stopped several times as the Ranger (Ann, a geologist) explained all the different rocks to us, how the range had been formed (it isn’t part of the Rockies, it is much younger), and how the park came into being.  It was quite interesting, but took two hours to walk a single mile!

Here are some pictures from the hike:

After this, I had planned to walk all the way up to Solitude Lake (a further six miles) and then back around the Northern part of Jenny Lake.  However, yesterday there was a bear attack, a black bear charging a group of people on the trail, so the Rangers were closing that part of the walk.

So, on Ann’s advice, she said there are no bears in the valley up to the lake, but to walk back by the same route.  Which advice I dutifully took.

Except for one thing.  The flies.  Only in Scotland have I been beset by such a cloud of things so determined to make me their dinner.  The first mile was fine, the next was bearable, the third was getting ridiculous.  I was unable to stop to rest because instantly the swarm of flies following me, surrounded and started eating me.  In order to drink, I had to grab the bottle out of my bag, and walk back and forth quickly, as it’s quite hard to swot flies away with your hat while drinking.

Eventually a couple (a Norwegian and a Czech, currently living in Santa Fe but formerly living in Oxford) passed me going the other way, having just turned back.  After I did my little water drinking dance, I decided enough was enough, and turned to follow them, when I saw flies trying to nest on the inside of my hat.

I caught them up and we chatted the whole way back.  I think the total distance was probably around six miles, so not bad, but I didn’t make it to the lake which was frustrating.  One couple I spoke to said they had been a few times, and had never seen it so bad.  I guess I won’t find out how much of me they ate until I wake up in the morning!

It was worth it, though.

The walk through the valley lived up to the scenery I’ve seen so far.  The mountains towered high above, on both sides, and the glacial river waters were a constant companion.  If it weren’t for those dratted flies, I think it would have matched my hike in the Rockies!

Finally, I drove up to Yellowstone to collect a map so I can plan my day tomorrow, and on the way took these next pictures.  It is so impressive the way the mountains just rise out of the plain.  There are no foothills, no preparation, just scrubland, a few trees, and then mountain.

Finally, one last picture.  I arrived back at the lodge, astonishingly dirty from the dusty walk, and I realised that my boots are now covered in dust, mud and soil from seven national parks, one state park and a couple of national monuments.  They are holding up well!